4/14/11

Restaurant Review: Meritage (St. Paul) AKA My Adventures with Pig

We haven’t been back to eat at Meritage since last fall and that was well before they knocked through the wall and tossed Annie’s Ice Cream out on their ear from the Hamm Building.  Okay so technically it was up to the building’s owner to allow annie’s ice cream to stay in the building but, well, I imagine the idea of Meritage expanding was a whole lot better than a sort of worn down family owned and operated established icecream stand/card shop.
Anyhow we decided in the gloom and doom of the pending snowy weekend to depart from our usual skyway fast food fare and eat at the newly created oyster bar for lunch today…mostly because I couldn’t seem to get the idea of tuna tartare tacos outta my head, since receiving one for an amuse busche last fall.

So we sat at the bar.  I must say the new renovations and bar area at Meritage are quite comfortable and I typically don’t like sitting at bars but this was very nice.  The bar is stainless steel and the soft spoken bartender was attentive (of course we were his only customer as it was only a little after 11)

I ordered a tuna tartare taco, a pepsi/coke, and a grilled brie sandwich and fries.

The tuna tartare taco came out.  And maybe it was because it was free the last time, but I remember it tasting a little more zippier.  That said, it was still delicious and somehow the combination of the crunch of the cute mini taco shell and the soft velvety unctuousness of tuna cubes just works.

Then we waited.  And waited.  And just when I was thinking “how long does it take to make a grilled cheese sandwich?” the waitress came with another amuse busche…confit pig’s tongue.

Uh, what?

Seriously, I realize we are in a world where foodies abound and want to try different things BUT, I don’t know if the chef realized that I ordered a relatively safe grilled cheese sandwich?

I actually consider myself pretty adventurous.  I know what I like and there are a few things that I don’t like.  I like liver pate.  I don’t like onions.  Tongue is way outta my comfort zone.  But if Andrew Zimmern and Anthony Bourdain can eat it on a regular basis, I was game.  Of course they also eat disgusting things like fried maggots so I’m not sure that was really solid reasoning.

It tasted like a really rich, kind of melt in your mouth pork roast.  You know that inner cut that has been roasting for an hour in it’s own fat (which is pretty much what confit is…)  They gave me two pieces.  I wasn’t sure if this was a couple of slices of the tongue or if pigs tongues were small and thereby I was eating two of them.  And there was a sort of odd shape to them.  Anyhow, I ate the first piece quickly, with a follow-up cleansing rinse of pepsi and all was good…so long as I didn’t remind myself I was eating an actual tongue.  The second piece was fine too.  But I don’t think it will be anything I will be dreaming about anytime soon.

What is it about amuse busche’s that make me feel guilty.  It’s sort of like the chef is saying, “I know you are hungry and I want to gift you with my masterpiece creation.”  Something in me always feels like I have to eat it or insult the chef….and as long as it isn’t onions, green peppers or anything remotely spicy, I will probably eat it. (although I do like French onion soup so I’m not sure even that is accurate?)

Ten minutes went by and I still hadn’t received the brie sandwich.  Was I missing something?  It’s bread, butter, and brie.  Oh and some sort of apple jam.  Yep that’s gotta be what was holding it up.  Oh and they had to fry their yummy pommes frites.

The tv over the bar was playing CNN without the sound and close-captioning.  I might say that either the autocorrect on the close captioning was terribly off or someone needs to learn both grammar and spelling.  Terrible! Randi Kaye looks great though - haven't seen her since her local news days.

The sandwich finally arrived.  The fries were delicious.  Seriously among the best French fries in the the twin cities.  The sandwich was really fried to a perfect brown crispness.  The melty brie was good.  I wish they had put the apple jam on the side.  It was just a little much and the spice mix didn’t really work for me with the brie.

The bill arrived. $3.00 for a pepsi?  Really?  Seems a rip-off when it’s the same pepsi I get in the food court for a 1.00.  Oh it must be the glass.

All in all it was good.  And I can check off “tongue” on my list of culinary adventures.

Three stars

Editor's note: To die for Steak Frittes is my favorite meal here...Bearnaise and fries have got to be one of my favorite combinations. It's a little pricey but for a special treat...so good. 

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